I’m probably the last person on the planet to read In Defense of Food, but I’m glad I finally got around to it.
As Pollan himself states in the introduction, the fact that anybody has
to write a book emphasizing the need to eat real food rather than processed
food, shows how mixed up we’ve become. There are no earth-shattering truths here, but we’ve become
accustomed to so many lies from food manufacturers, that Pollan’s reality check is fresh and interesting.
He begins by debunking “nutritionism,” which he calls an
ideology and not a science. When nutritionists began breaking foods
down into nutrients and vitamins and isolating certain nutrients as “super” and
others as “harmful,” they opened the door for food manufacturing. Suddenly anything could be injected with the
proper nutrients and come out a “health food.” By the same token, nutrients that are out of
fashion (carbs or cholesterol) could be eliminated from these food products.
The typical whole food
has much more trouble competing under the rules of nutritionism, if only
because something like a banana or an avocado can’t quite as readily change its
nutritional stripes. (18)
It’s a whole lot
easier to slap a health claim on a box of sugary cereal than on a raw potato or
a carrot, with the perverse result that the most healthful foods in the
supermarket sit there quietly in the produce section, silent as stroke victims,
while a few aisles over in Cereal the Cocoa
Puffs and Lucky Charms are screaming their newfound “whole-grain goodness” to
the rafters. (40)
Pollan goes on to say that we’ve become so obsessed over the latest scientific
discoveries (Think “antioxidants”) that many have developed “orthorexia”, an unhealthy
obsession with healthy eating.
So this is what
putting science, and scientism, in charge of the American diet has gotten us:
anxiety and confusion about even the most basic questions of food and health,
and a steadily diminishing ability to enjoy one of the great pleasures of life
without guilt or neurosis. (80) Instead
of worrying about nutrients, we should simply avoid any food that has been
processed to such an extent that it is more the product of industry than of
nature. (143)
Except for a couple of silly comments about the evolutionary
process, this book is filled with practical and refreshing insights. Pollan’s parting advice is to avoid food with
more than five ingredients (or any food that your great grandmother wouldn’t
recognize). I’ve enjoyed putting it into practice.